Rosalia, girls designers, stark contrasts: Paris menswear highlights

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Paris (AFP) – One of the vital liveliest menswear weeks in fresh reminiscence wrapped up in Paris on Sunday. Listed below are probably the most highlights:

Dior vs. Louis Vuitton

Two very other approaches from two of the largest properties, who constructed massive rival hangars at both finish of the Tuileries Gardens that run during the heart of Paris.

Whilst Vuitton created a complete division full of number one colours and taken in Rosalía for a forceful efficiency on most sensible of a automobile, Dior opted for a completely lit black runway and somber, subtle outfits, set to hovering track via German composer Max. Richter and a small orchestra.

The 2 get on well, even supposing some complained that it used to be arduous to concentrate on the Vuitton garments whilst taking a look at Rosalía.

Justin Berkowitz, menswear director at New York’s Bloomingdale’s division retailer, mentioned the Vuitton display used to be probably the most a laugh of the week, but additionally praised Kim Jones’ Dior assortment as “extremely chic with a brand new sophistication and lavishness.” in a cushy colour palette.

Dior completed a somber however ‘fashionable’ vibe together with his display, which featured Robert Pattinson’s studying from ‘The Desert’ © Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT / AFP

BTS, Chalamet, Usher

The fame rely used to be prime this week, with the biggest selection of lovers screaming out of doors the Dior display to look J-Hope of Ok-pop phenomenon BTS.

Timothee Chalamet used to be a different visitor for Loewe, and creative director Jonathan Anderson mentioned he epitomizes the bolder solution to menswear that the field is seeing take off.

“Model hasn’t ever been so thrilling,” Anderson informed AFP. “The panorama is converting.”

Ubiquitous all over the week used to be RnB superstar Usher, who used to be arduous to pass over together with his vibrant pink new coiffure.

A veteran nonetheless excites

Rick Owens has introduced his gothic, post-apocalyptic insanity to the Paris runway for years, however he is nonetheless raving concerning the crowd, which this week integrated David and Victoria Beckham.

Rick Owens impressed with his latest gothic creations
Rick Owens inspired together with his newest gothic creations © Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT / AFP

“Rick Owens continues to provoke every season, growing new silhouettes, proportions and fabrications whilst staying true to his singular and really compelling imaginative and prescient,” mentioned Simon Longland, head of menswear and womenswear at UK division retailer Harrods.

rising designers

A quartet of girls of their early thirties, British Grace Wales Bonner and Bianca Saunders, French Marine Serre and American Emily Bode, have been some of the maximum wanted entries.

It used to be the primary are living display in Paris for Wales Bonner, impressed via black Parisian icons, and showcased his “swish tailoring…and fascinating main points for the very best private assortment,” Berkowitz mentioned.

Marine Serre is one of several young designers who are redefining the industry.
Marine Serre is considered one of a number of younger designers who’re redefining the trade. © Emmanuel DUNAND / AFP

Bode, contemporary off the CFDA Menswear Clothier of the 12 months award, returned to Paris for the primary time because the pandemic with a antique assortment impressed via his mom’s circle of relatives that remodeled the degree of the Chatelet Theater right into a scene from the The usa rural.

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